Do you feel that modern couture fashion shows fulfill their legacies of extravagance and theatricali
Many believe that there has been a recent shift of power in the fashion industry. Gone are the days that the notable designers, fashion houses, and magazine editors depict what is deemed fashion for the season. Instead, consumers decide for themselves. And what they have decided is that elaborate, dressy ensembles are essentially no longer necessary to every day life. This rejection to “dressing up” has created something of a gap between what consumers actually wear and the theatrical pieces traditionally seen on a runway.
The acknowledgement and pressures of this gap over the years brings about an important question for the industry: Have modern day couture shows conformed their collections to be more in line with reality and depict this cultural change or have they stayed consistent with the extravagant, theatrical ones of the past? To answer this we look at the couture shows of renowned fashion houses Chanel, Dior, Ungaro.
Chanel’s haute couture fashion shows have come to be known for its extravagant, over-the-top, scenery. Recent years have seen magnificent glaciers, towering lion statues, and amongst various other magnificent scenery for the widely awaited event. Most recently, Chanel’s spring/summer 2016 show had a large wooden doll house/ zen garden that compartmentalized all of the models for the show’s finale (shown below). Chantal Fernandez from fashionista.com explains that the set-up "a spring couture collection dedicated to nature, in both a macro and micro sense." The looks for the show incorporated this nature theme as well, with fabrics that "were embroidered with wood shavings, small tiles or patterns of bees, birds and flowers" (Fernandez). However, many of the looks were in line with the classic Chanel aesthetic (elegant, eye-catching tweed) and were realistic when compared to previous designs within the couture world. Only a handful of looks- mostly gowns- could be considered a bit extravagant and contain theatrical elements.
Photo Credit: Chanel
Dior’s spring/summer 2016 haute couture fashion show continued in a similar way as Chanel’s was described. The setting for the show provided for most, if not all of its theatrics. The walls were lined with mirrors that quivered and moved freely created a sense of being in an alternate dimension; however, the show’s looks were much more representative of “wearable clothing” with very few airing on the side of extravagance and very simple makeup.
Photo Credit: Dior
Ungaro’s spring/summer 2003 haute couture fashion show was seemingly opposite to those described from Chanel and Dior. The designer’s presentation included a minimalist setting, yet theatrical looks. Remaining true to brand, Ungaro’s collection featured his traditional vibrant prints and wide color pallet with eye-catching, dramatized accents (bottom).
Photo Credit: Vogue
Now after looking at each of these houses, have modern day couture shows changed? In a way, they’ve had to with the changing climate of the industry; however, it seems as though couture houses are continuing to involve theatrics and extravagance in their shows through some aspect. Houses such as Chanel and Dior continue the tradition through their shows’ backdrop, while designers like Ungaro continue through the pieces themselves.